Et pakistan-indisk eventyr

#Indus Fine Dining

GOD STEMNING: Når hovmesteren på diskret avstand følger med og passer på at gjesten trives, løftes bespisningen fra en nytelse til en opplevelse.

Uten prangende fasader og i gangavstand fra en larmende Thorvald Meyers gate, tilbyr Indus Fine Dining diskret eleganse og stille luksus for kresne ganer.

Det var naboen i fjerde som anbefalte meg å spise på Indus. Anledningen for ettertanke og god mat bød seg en mandag ettermiddag og hovmesteren henviste meg til et av de få bordene som var ledig. Et tomannsbord med vindusplass.

En uniformskledd kelner hilste høflig og ønsket velkommen og presenterte menyen. I selskap med et glass husets rødvin brukte jeg god tid på å se meg omkring i lokalet før jeg bestilte.

Det er litt stil over det at to kelnere serverer maten og følger opp gjestens ønsker. Det gir en følelse av å være spesiell.

STJERNELAGET: Sjefskokken er lært opp av den legendariske Qamar, som var banebrytende på å etablere nordindisk matkultur i Norge.

Det var som å komme inn i en helt annen verden og hensatte tankene til langt mer eksotiske strøk enn kalde vintergater i Oslo. Den store lysende solen på veggen ved siden av bordet var dekket med blafrende bladgull. Nedre avdeling har en Buddha-vegg. Deler av taket i øvre avdeling er dekorert med innrammede Bollywoodbilder. En annen vegg i midtavdeling hadde et moderne rutet mahogny-design og innerste avdeling er innredet som book lounge.

Jeg valgte ganske tradisjonelt fra den rikholdige menyen og begynte med en frisk, muligens litt norskinspirert, salat.

Som hovedrett falt valget på en liten dish Kashmiri Roganjosh sammen med en tilsvarende dish Mix gril bestående av stykker av marinert og stekt kylling, okse og kongereker ledsaget av nanbrød garlic.

Til drikke valgte jeg mer utradisjonelt det pakistanske ølet Murree Brewery beer som ble etablert for å møte etterspørselen fra britisk personell i Ghora Gali nord i Pakistan så tidlig som i 1860.

Dessertvalget falt på Dream Berries. En delikat hvit sjokolademousse med bourbon vanilje med friske bær på en bunn av sjokoladekake dekket med bringebærpurre. Den er forresten lagd av en norsk konditor nede i Østfold.

Det er litt stil over det at to kelnere serverer maten og følger opp gjestens ønsker. Det gir en følelse av å være spesiell.

EKSOTISK VARME: Å besøke Indus hensetter tankene til langt mer eksotiske strøk enn kalde vintergater i Oslo.

 

 

Det er litt stil over det at to kelnere serverer maten og følger opp gjestens ønsker. Det gir en følelse av å være spesiell. Når også hovmesteren på diskret avstand følger med og passer på at gjesten trives, løftes bespisningen fra en nytelse til en opplevelse som gjør at jeg vil konkludere med at maten ikke kan beskrives, men må smakes.

For gjesten som er vant til den trivielle og populistiske kafekulturen som kjennetegner Løkka, gir Indus´ det lille spesielle som stedet ønsker å gi alle gjestene.

Det nord-indiske kjøkkenet har for lengst etablert seg med velsmakende og fyldige retter som med et spennende, litt norsk crossover-element tilpasset norske ganer, likevel bevarer sitt særpreg. Det syntes på ingrediensene og smakene, men altså uten å miste sitt genuine opphav.

Senere kom det frem at sjefskokken er lært opp av den legendariske Qamar, som var banebrytende på å etablere nordindisk matkultur i Norge. Qamar har i et tidligere intervju fortalt at det er marineringen og sausene som gjør måltidet.

Selv har jeg spist indisk og pakistansk mat siden syttitallet og sier med glede at dette var klassegodt. Hans gamle læremester ville ha vært stolt av eleven og kalt ham for mester.

  • Meny: Mat og originalitet: 5+.
  • Service: Kelneren fulgte meget godt opp: 5+.
  • Interiør: Spennende, som i et indisk eventyr: 5+.

Haakon Marcello

 

 

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